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Kaip pižamos valdė mados pasaulį

Kaip pižamos valdė mados pasaulį

Didžiosios Britanijos pradinės mokyklos vyriausiasis mokytojas ragino tėvus nenešti pižamų, kai atveža vaikus, bijodamos parodyti jiems blogą pavyzdį. Tačiau pižamos, toli gražu nelaikomos apniukusiomis ir nemadingomis, kadaise buvo pačioje mados viršūnėje.

Garsiausias Venecijos paplūdimys „Lido“ daugiau nei 150 metų žinomas dėl savo rafinuotumo. Taigi 1927 m. Reklaminis plakatas nustebina.

Potencialiems turtingiems lankytojams paskelbta, kad „Lido“ yra „saulės ir pižamos paplūdimys“. Jo smėlis ir viešbučiai buvo vieta, kurioje žmonės galėjo jaustis patogiai leisdami dienas ir vakarus, ilsėdamiesi ir vakarėdami su pižama, kuri šiandien susijusi su miegą, sveikimą ar dienas pabaigą, kurias leidžiame ant sofos.

Savaitę, kai Darlingtono skyriaus vyriausiasis mokytojas tėvams liepė nedaryti mokyklinių bėgimų dėvėdami pižamas, bijodamas nerodyti „gero pavyzdžio“ savo vaikams, sunku patikėti, kad tai kada nors buvo aukštoji mada.

Tačiau 1920-ieji buvo kitas laikas. Nors pižamos - iš hindi kalbos „paejama“, reiškiančios „kojų apdangalą“ - nuo 1870-ųjų tapo įprasta naktine apranga vyrams, tai buvo manoma, kad moteriai per drąsu dėvėti bet kokias kelnes, ypač viešose vietose.

Pokyčių jėga buvo prancūzų mados dizainerė Gabrielle „Coco“ Chanel, kuri nusprendė, kad baggy -pižamos stiliaus kelnės - komplektuojamos su laisvais marškiniais arba be rankovių viršaus - ir tai būti elegancija ir komfortas.

Jau 1918 m. Ji pradėjo dėvėti „paplūdimio pižamas“. Supainioti dėl lyties, kalbant apie buduarą, jie buvo vertinami kaip šokiruojantys, tačiau Chanel įtaka buvo tokia, kad 1920 m. Viduryje jie išpopuliarėjo tarp turtingų moterų.

Artėjantis Juan-les-Pins kurortas Prancūzijos Cote d'Azur mieste pasirodė esąs mažiau niūrus nei konkurentų paskirties vietos taškas ir išpopuliarėjo kaip „Pyjamaland“ angliškai ir „Pyjamapolis“ prancūzų kalba, todėl jie buvo dažniausiai dėvimi tarp jos lankytojų. Vieni pasirinko „Chanel“ stiliaus 

Kai pižamos valdė mados pasaulį

Didžiosios Britanijos pradinės mokyklos vyriausiasis mokytojas ragino tėvus nenešti pižamų, kai atveža vaikus, bijodamos parodyti jiems blogą pavyzdį. Tačiau pižamos, toli gražu nelaikomos apniukusiomis ir nemadingomis, kadaise buvo pačioje mados viršūnėje.

Garsiausias Venecijos paplūdimys „Lido“ daugiau nei 150 metų žinomas dėl savo rafinuotumo. Taigi 1927 m. Reklaminis plakatas nustebina.

Potencialiems turtingiems lankytojams paskelbta, kad „Lido“ yra „saulės ir pižamos paplūdimys“. Jo smėlis ir viešbučiai buvo vieta, kurioje žmonės galėjo jaustis patogiai leisdami dienas ir vakarus, ilsėdamiesi ir vakarėdami su pižama, kuri šiandien susijusi su miegą, sveikimą ar dienas pabaigą, kurias leidžiame ant sofos.

Savaitę, kai Darlingtono skyriaus vyriausiasis mokytojas tėvams liepė nedaryti mokyklinių bėgimų dėvėdami pižamas, bijodamas nerodyti „gero pavyzdžio“ savo vaikams, sunku patikėti, kad tai kada nors buvo aukštoji mada.

Tačiau 1920-ieji buvo kitas laikas. Nors pižamos - iš hindi kalbos „paejama“, reiškiančios „kojų apdangalą“ - nuo 1870-ųjų tapo įprasta naktine apranga vyrams, tai buvo manoma, kad moteriai per drąsu dėvėti bet kokias kelnes, ypač viešose vietose.

Pokyčių jėga buvo prancūzų mados dizainerė Gabrielle „Coco“ Chanel, kuri nusprendė, kad baggy -pižamos stiliaus kelnės - komplektuojamos su laisvais marškiniais arba be rankovių viršaus - ir tai būti elegancija ir komfortas.

Jau 1918 m. Ji pradėjo dėvėti „paplūdimio pižamas“. Supainioti dėl lyties, kalbant apie buduarą, jie buvo vertinami kaip šokiruojantys, tačiau Chanel įtaka buvo tokia, kad 1920 m. Viduryje jie išpopuliarėjo tarp turtingų moterų.

Artėjantis Juan-les-Pins kurortas Prancūzijos Cote d'Azur mieste pasirodė esąs mažiau niūrus nei konkurentų paskirties vietos taškas ir išpopuliarėjo kaip „Pyjamaland“ angliškai ir „Pyjamapolis“ prancūzų kalba, todėl jie buvo dažniausiai dėvimi tarp jos lankytojų. Vieni pasirinko „Chanel“ stiliaus madingą pižamą, tačiau kiti, atrodydami, kad būtų įdomūs, dienas praleido lauke prie tikros miego pižamos, kurią papildė chalatu.

"Prancūzijoje yra miestelis, kuriame vasaros prasideda pavasario pradžioje ir baigiasi rudens pabaigoje", - 1931 m. Rašė žurnalistas Robertas de Beauplanas. "Ten galite pamatyti moteris, dėvinčias keistas sukneles. Griežtai tariant, Pyjamapolis. " Tais pačiais metais žurnalas „Vogue“ reklamavo pižamas kaip „vilnonius kostiumus paplūdimiui“.

1932 m. Dvi moterys, dėvėjusios ryškiaspalves pižamas, sukėlė sąmyšį Braitono pajūryje, kai jos pūtė į pypkes.

"Per 1930-ųjų stilius plito toliau ir juos buvo galima pamatyti Didžiosios Britanijos paplūdimiuose. Vis dėlto moteriškos kelnės išliko šiek tiek tabu dėl ramių paplūdimio aprangos kodų ar namų privatumo iki vėlesnio amžiaus", - sako mados istorikas Gintaras Butchartas.

Pats Chanelis šį požiūrį atrado apsilankęs Juan-les-Pins. Pasakojama, kad durininkas neleido jai patekti į kazino. Kazino savininkas Edouardas Baudoinas įsikišo ir pasakė: „Mademoiselle Chanel, jūs esate gyvas įrodymas, kad žmogus turi būti ne tik apsirengęs, bet ir gerai apsirengęs“. Atrodo, kad viešumas nepadarė jokios žalos nei Baudoin, nei Chanel.

Iki Antrojo pasaulinio karo pamišimas dėl pižamos išblėso, o maudymosi kostiumėlis ją aplenkė kaip pasirinktą moterišką paplūdimio drabužį. „Chanel“ vėl buvo tarp tų, kurie populiarėjo priešakyje. Pokario laikotarpiu bikinius perėmė kaip labiau atskleidžiantys drabužiai.

Tačiau Roberto de Beauplano pastebėjimai primena, kokį efektą pižamos turėjo tarpukario pasaulyje. „Jie suteikė recedento neturinčioms moterims išvaizdą, o jos ramus požiūris visada išlieka skoningas“, - rašė jis.

Buvo prieinamos paprastos „klasikinės“ versijos, pridūrė jis, ir „labiau pasipuošusių“ tipų, su apatiniu pjūviu, ypač gale. „Tai popietės apranga, skirta kokiems apsilankymams, arbatai, šokiams ir kokteiliams“, - rašė Beauplanas. "Taip pat yra naktinių pižamų, kurios iš tolo atrodo kaip suknelės, kai matai jas kazino."

Mados pasaulyje pastaruoju metu vėl kilo susidomėjimas pižama kaip dienos apranga, kai kurie dizaineriai įtraukė jas į savo kolekcijas.

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

  •        Gimusi 1883 m. Saumūre, Prancūzijoje, ji buvo užauginta našlaičių namuose, kur išmoko siūti
  •        Prieš atidarant savo pirmąją drabužių parduotuvę, 1910 m. Ji dirbo dainininke, kur surinko slapyvardį „Coco“.
  •        1921 m. Ji išleido „Chanel Nr. 5“, kuris vis dar yra vienas geriausiai parduodamų kvepalų pasaulyje, ir vėliau išpopuliarino „mažą juodą suknelę“.
  •        Šešto dešimtmečio pradžioje Chanel grįžo į Paryžių, jos mados vėl tapo populiarios ir mirė 1971 m. Viešbutyje „Ritz“.

.

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